Whether my finger is recovering from an injury or if it feels a bit tweaky, I have my go-to finger taping technique that to date has never failed me. For years when I first started climbing, I would aimlessly tape my fingers without much thought, so it was no surprise when I noticed that it never seemed to help. Eventually, I decided to stop being so lazy and careless with my lack of finger taping knowledge and did something about it.
After years of research, testing, trial and error, and of course the help of my wonderful husband, we finally found a taping technique where my fingers felt well supported and could continue to heal while I continued to climbed (whoop whoop!).
Many of the taping techniques that I tried in the past either felt like they were doing absolutely nothing (which actually means my injury was likely getting worse) or it felt like my finger just wasn’t supported enough. I found that when this happens you can start compensating for your injury by putting more weight on other fingers or on your other hand. Then you know what happens? Another bloody injury!! Once you start compensating because you don’t feel confident climbing on a recovering finger then you open up the door to new injuries. You obviously don’t want that.
This is why it is important to have a solid finger taping technique. Not only does it support your finger to promote healing, but it gives you the confidence you need to climb, which reduces your risk of additional injuries. When your finger feels supported you won’t have the urge to grab holds differently to avoid weighting your injured finger too much. However, you have to make the call whether your finger is well enough to climb on in the first place. Although climbing can aid in the recovery of your finger, there are obviously times when rest is needed. Also, be smart when you climb on a recovering finger. Take it easy and stick to easier climbs and for goodness sake avoid crimps!
Ok, so first off, the credit for this finger taping technique has to go my hubby. He was in fact the one who did most of the extensive research and combined parts of other taping strategies into this one supreme, my finger feels oh so good, strategy. Kudos Daniel! 🙂
Secondly, I am not a doctor nor a physiotherapist. This taping method is based purely on research and testing performed by Daniel and I.
This taping method is most likely similar to others you’ve read, but with just some minor tweaks that we felt were needed.
Start by ripping about 15 inches of medium width tape. Medium width means about half an inch.
Tape 2 to 3 times around your A2 pulley. Make sure it’s not too loose or not so tight that you restrict blood flow. It may take a couple a tries before you get used to the right amount of tightness.
Cross over the under side of the joint (over the A3 pulley) towards the A4 pulley. While you do this make sure you have a slight bend in your finger.
Tape 2 times around your A4 pulley keeping you finger bent and using the same tightness you did around your A2 pulley.
Cross over the underside of your joint again (creating an ‘X’) and pulling slightly to lock your finger in a slightly bent position.
Use the remaining tape to tape once around your A2 pulley again then cut off the excess. I personally like to end the tape on the top of my finger to prevent it from peeling off.
If your finger tip is red or feels like it could explode then that’s a good sign it’s too tight. A quick test is to squeeze the tip of your finger. If the blood returns immediately then tightness is likely good. If the blood returns more slowly then there is too much pressure on the finger.
This taping technique will successfully support your three main pulleys (A2, A3, and A4). Your finger should feel well supported, have a slight bend in it, and you should not feel pressure by restricting blood flow. Use this taping method on recovering fingers or even when you’re not injured and just want some extra support when you’re going on a crimpfest.
Now it’s time to climb! Climb with confidence as you take care of your fingers!
Do you think this taping technique can work for you? Leave your comment below!