Check out this interview with pro climber Alex Johnson. So inspired by this girl. She’s got such a great attitude and loves to help out in the community by sharing her wealth of knowledge. Her incredible strength and down to earth personality makes her a truly motivating climber. I’d take the chance to climb with her any day! 🙂
1. What inspires you to climb?
For me inspiration can come from a lot of different things. A really stunning line on the boulder or the cliff, great simple movements that make a climb flow, being in a beautiful area like Yosemite, or being surrounded by really motivated people who also love climbing.
2. What is your best piece of advise for female climbers?
Don’t let yourself be held back by thinking you’re not as “strong” as the guys!!
3. What about climbing do you find the most challenging?
Failure. Ironically, because as climbers pretty much all we do is fail. I have always been athletic, I grew up doing pretty much every sport there is except hockey, so when I am unable to complete something, or get stuck on a specific move it frustrates me.
4. How do you motivate yourself when your having a bad climbing day?
If I am having an off day, I’ll take everything down a notch, and go for mileage instead of trying to climb something hard. I like to make fun games out of the days I suck, like in Bishop when I was having a rough day on The Swarm, I went back down to the Buttermilks and tried to climb every V2 I could find. It helps keep climbing fun when things aren’t going so well.
5. What does your training schedule look like?
Right now it’s pretty mellow, I just go climbing like 4 days a week. Leading up to an event I’ll do weight training 2 days a week and climb 4-5 days for 3+ hours.
6. If you could pack up tomorrow and go climbing anywhere where would you go?
I think South Africa. It’s been number one on my list of places to visit for years but it’s just never worked out.
7. What has been your favorite climb and why?
Right now my favorite climb is this gorgeous, fun V3 in Red Rocks called Porkchop. I’ve climbed it probably thirty times and I have my sequence so dialed that it has this amazing flow of movement to it. It’s tall, technical, and the descent is a walk-off. It’s perfect!
8. What has been your best experience as a climber?
This is a hard one. I don’t have one specific experience that I would say is the best, but I get a lot of gratification and pride out of working with younger climbers, whether it’s coaching, teaching a clinic, or taking them climbing outside. I think those are my best moments as a professional athlete, above all the competitions and hard sends.
9. What are your climbing goals for the upcoming years?
My goals for the near future are predominantly outdoor. I still love competitions and have fun doing them, but my heart is in rock climbing, and I think outdoor achievements are more impressive and in my case, more beneficial and notable to my career as an athlete. Anyway, back to the actual goals– The Swarm, V13/14, is number one on my list. Right now it’s the only thing on my list. After that I’ll probably move on to another outdoor project.
10. Name one thing about you that few people know (like a hobby, pet peeve, bad habit, or guilty pleasure).
I have minor obsessive compulsive tendencies, like how I arrange my clothes in my closet and my bills in my wallet.
Thanks AJ for the interview. Keep on inspiring! 🙂